June/July 2026 This post is written differently than my previous ones in that the subject is not a single restaurant but a review of the wonderful food, hiking, accommodations, and camaraderie we shared on a Backroads Hiking trip to the island of Madeira. Madeira, an autonomous region of Portugal, is an archipelago comprising four islands off the northwest coast of Africa. It is known for its namesake wine and warm, subtropical climate. The main island of Madeira is volcanic, green and rugged, with high cliffs, and rocky beaches. Conveniently, it was only a 90 minute flight from Lisbon. Our week of hiking started and ended in Funchal, the capital city of Madeira with stays at the Casa Vella Do Palheiro – Relais & Chateaux, the Saccarum Resort & Spa in Calhata and the famous and majestic Belmond Reid’s Palace. All three hotels were unique with excellent dining options.
Before I mention some of the food we shared in Madeira, I must first describe how we developed ferocious appetites throughout the week of hiking. We covered 32 miles, gained 8,676 feet of elevation, and descended 7,329 feet of elevation. Several hikes included grades exceeding 25-35%. The longest hike was Porto da Cruz at 8.1 miles. The most elevation gained was Nun’s Valley at 2,130 feet. While we hiked 32 miles over the six days, my Fitbit registered over 50 miles counting all of the walking we did in addition to the trail hikes. The seven hikes we completed included:
| Hike | Distance | Elevation Gain | Elevation Loss |
| Levada dos Tornos | 5.8 mi | 943 ft | 1,120 ft |
| St. Lawrence Peninsula | 2.9 mi | 377 ft | 767 ft |
| Caniçal Long Option | 3.7 mi | 997 ft | 954 ft |
| Porto da Cruz | 8.1 mi | 1,685 ft | 2,367 ft |
| Laurissilva | 4.8 mi | 1,848 ft | 429 ft |
| Nun’s Valley | 4.8 mi | 2,130 ft | 971 ft |
| Stairway to Heaven | 2.0 mi | 696 ft | 721 ft |
If you have been on a Backroads trip, you know that you will be well fed…whether it’s a Portuguese breakfast buffet, a “picnic” lunch along the trail, or a gourmet dinner in a Michelin recognized restaurant. Backroads is also knows as “Snackroads” to the regulars as every break during a hike, bike or other activity involves a Trip Leader bringing cold drinks, granola, fruits, and other energy foods to munch on. When our group wasn’t hiking, eating or enjoying the luxury hotel amenities, we toured a historic local rum factory in Porto da Cruz, visited the BAM Banana Museum in Ponto do Sol, and enjoyed local musicians performing Fado, a type of Portuguese music originating in Lisbon.



























